Oldest system, by release year its my Hong Kong 6 Switch Atari 2600. Local guy was selling it and it was in immaculate condition. Dust cover on the system, with boxed games.

At the time I was selling games and systems, so I kept the system and 2 games for myself. Don’t use it much since its a 2600, but I have it on my shelf.

Oldest system I own is my GBC, had it since before my youngest sibling was born and I still have it today. Obviously doesn’t get much use since GBA SP, but I still keep it around.

I too install Linux Mint, though Fedora Silverblue and Kinote is another good alternative.

The FunkoPop Store EB Games here in Canada were re-labeled to GameStop recently. They’re still in every Mall in the land from what I’ve seen. Though they are doing better. Game selection isn’t what it use to be, but the variety is growing now. I was surprised when I found Manga in our local GameStop.

Not exactly my cup of tea, but catering to “Nerd” culture, and going beyond “Merch” is something I can get behind, since it’s rare to see another store not selling the same old drivel as everyone else.

I’ve been at this for years, most of my designs are like your solid parts (Display Stands and DS Stylus). I’ve only recently tried experimenting with moving parts, and I’ve found using mixed mediums the best when 3D printing. i.e. using cloth or leather as the moving medium, with TPU or PETG for strength/flexibility.

As for what this is for. I’ve designed and made 3D Printable e-reader cases, which this link will show you the printable parts for, but I’d like to make a case for my iPad and other tablets, however I want to be able to prop it up and for it to be stable. This is designed with my cases in mind, and it has the clearance to lay flush with the back panel.

End goal is to have this embeded in the back so I can prop it up landscape, while I have another in the sleep cover so it can be propped up portrait, like an easel.

I could achieve the same effect by making the arms thicker. Though I am thinking of printing the screw caps in TPU to see if I can make it stiffer that way.

Trying to keep the parts the same as the main thing this belongs too. M2 threaded inserts and 5mm screws. So not a lot of flexibility when it comes to thickness. That said, as a MK2 I’d probably make it 2mm thick rather than 1.2mm since that’s my goto size for stiffness.

Somewhere between Minecraft Java edition and a modern title made with the Steam Deck in mind, like TMNT Shreaders Revenge.

I’m just happy to see a slowly increasing support base, even if its just to support wine

While its annoying, its so easy to unsubscribe that I see it as a fair price for a free game.

I have the old physical copy. The DRM on it is awful, get the GOG copy.

Right, lots of suggestions for Bambu and Prusa and rightfully so. But their prices are high and while they are worth it, they wouldn’t be what I’d suggest for a first time printer.

The Ender 3 is what I’d suggest, though not the V1. The S1 or the v3 and good starting points for being in budget and having some modern features.

This isn’t like the mid 2010’s where it was hit or miss and the printers will have a slight chance of burning your house down. Hictop anyone? But these days even a $200 printer is good enough to start printing.

That said software is going to be your biggest pain point.

For the slicer make sure its compatible with PrusaSlicr or Cura. Preferability the former. This makes the models to print, and some cheep third party slicers makes their own with questionable quality and support.

For modeling, you have some options. Blender if you are looking to design 3d shapes like clay. Fusion360 is a cheap and free (while limited) solution for parametric cad design. With TinkerCAD is a good in between. But like Photoshop is to gimp, Fusion 360 is to FreeCAD and it may be worth learning how FreeCAD works since its an extremely flexible tool.

TL:DR Ender 3 V3/S1, Prusa Slicer, Cura, Blender, TinkerCAD, Fusion360, FreeCAD and you should be too to start printing and making brackets.

$500 for a Krabby Patty?

With cheese Mr. Squidward, with cheese.

While I understand your argument. I have my own philosophy for what is retro in terms of games.

For me I don’t look at the system but the games. And for games it about 10-15 years after they were first released.

Enough time that kids can be born and never see this game until now. While I wouldn’t call Pokemon Sun/Moon retro just yet. The 3ds/2ds has games on it that I would consider it retro.

Its been over half a decade since Nintendo stopped making games for it, and even longer since people cared about it.

The only time I will argue something isn’t retro is when its still on the store shelf and not in the discount bin.

If you want me to make you feel old the hardware was released in 2013, making it over 10 years old this year.

You can do this with 10 but not 11. Tested on both a VM and hardware.

I use Linux because of the 3D desktop cube. Who doesn’t love the cube!

To clarify, this is what my e-reader case looks like

What this replaces is the side without the e-reader. As for overheating, never been an issue since the e-reader is exposed to the air and the heat goes through the screen.

Recommendations for learning. Have someone who knows how to hand sew nearby to ask questions. My local leather shop has classes to help newbies.

That said I didn’t take those, as I had a really good idea on what I wanted, and someone nearby that could teach me to sew. Plus I used cutting machines to do a lot of the heavy lifting.

My only advice is to not use a vinyl cutter like from Cricut or Silhouette. The motors are not strong enough to cut actual leather, they fetch and loose steps very easily. Laser is your best bet, though the smell is pungent, ventilation is required.

The other advise is unlike cloth, you need to plan and make your stitch holes before you sew. Leather is too thick to punch through it without significant force. A Sharp knife is your best friend if you missed a hole.

Was more focused on the online games with kernel level anti cheat. But yeah, it’s surprising how many online games work. Excluding native games like CS2/CS GO and TF2, I was able to play non-steam online games online like EA’s Battlefront 2, OG Battlefront 1, with wine-ge.

While I agree with this video. As someone who did migrate from Windows to Linux, I feel the biggest issue which wasn’t address here was the planning for migrating to Linux.

Migrating to Linux means loosing access to Windows native applications like Adobe and kernel level anti cheat online games. What I found helped the most was transitioning to cross platform application and learning their ins and outs in Windows, or discovering ways to validate which applications work well in Proton and Wine.

With games ProtonDB is your best bet to see if there are issues. Or finding ways to solve issues.

With Professional software… you’re not going to be as lucky, so transitioning to an alternative which works for you might be the best solution.

The best way to check if Linux will work for you is to run Linux in a VM or on an external SSD on your actual hardware. The best way to check if something works for you is to try it yourself.

I while I understand the sentiment, I have found that paid software is more polished than foss software… most of the time. And when I need to get work done, I want to ensure that my software is stable and I will pay to do so.

That said, I feel software is like a bell curve, and the older the type of software is, the more it should be FOSS. Like word processors, 3D modelling, or image manipulation should be foss, while video editing and 3D scanning software is OK to be paid.

What I feel everyone should agree with is not being forced to use a subscription service to use the software. I will boycott software if it forces that upon their customers, looking at you Adobe, Autodesk and Microsoft.

I see it has two different products for two different use cases. Kdenlive is for those who missed Windows Movie maker or iMovie. Something to stitch together videos, or split apart videos.

DaVinci Resolve is for those who need stable professional software like adobe.

Not saying that kdenlive can’t be used professionally but I found its stability lacking, its tools unpolished and its functionality limited. The only benefit is that it can handle aac audio, and export it too thanks to ffmpeg.