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Cake day: December 15th, 2023

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  • I was interrupted before I submitted this comment, and I see you’ve gotten some replies since I wrote the draft, but my comment goes a little deeper, so I figured I’d still add on.

    FALD and mini LED are similar in function, but mini LED has a couple advantages. Since the actual LEDs are smaller, you can place a larger quantity of them behind the LCD panel than traditional LEDs. This allows for more dimming zones to reduce the halo effect, and also enables higher peak brightness which means better contrast.

    IPS and VA refer not to the backlight system, but to the actual liquid crystal display panel that sits in front of the backlight. The LCD itself is like an array of microscopic window shutters that can turn clear or black. By placing this LCD behind a color filter layer, the LCD can control light passing through each subpixel (red, green, blue) of the filter layer to produce the appropriate color for each pixel. Each panel type (IPS, VA, TN, etc ) has its own set of advantages and disadvantages when it comes to cost, response time, image ghosting, viewing angle, color accuracy, contrast, etc. Each of those panel types could be paired with an edge-lit backlight, FALD backlight, or mini LED backlight.

    OLED is a completely separate technology altogether. Instead of putting an LCD filter layer in front of a backlight, OLED puts individual white LEDs behind each red, green, and blue subpixel of the color filter layer. That means instead of a liquid crystal layer blocking out backlight (which is imperfect and still bleeds light, hence the FALD halo effect), an OLED simply does not emit light for that pixel/subpixel, allowing perfect blacks and better color accuracy.

    QLED and QD-OLED trade the white LED backlights and white OLED panels for blue light and discard the traditional color filter layer, replacing it with a sheet of quantum dots that use some kind of black magic optical fuckery to change blue light into red and green as well.




  • My Cyberpower UPS started going to shit last year and I ended up replacing it with a LiFePO4 power station that advertised a switching time fast enough to use as a UPS. I spent about $630 for a power station that can handle 1800W for an appreciably longer runtime than the lead acid battery backups, essentially one kilowatt hour. So far so good. My only complaint is that the outlets are on the front, which isn’t an ideal form factor for UPS duty. Plus, LiFePO4 is supposed to be good for ten years or so.





  • The only text on that page that states the origin of the dev’s code is Mazda’s claim that the relevant code is Mazda’s. If their claim is true, then it would seem to me the DMCA takedown is valid.

    The reason the DMCA takedown notice is malicious is that code from Mazda’s official app is not required to develop a tool that works in a similar way. The API of the server is freely accessible and figuring out how to interact with it can be done completely without infringing on anyone’s copyright.

    Okay, it doesn’t matter how it could have been done, it matters how it was done, and again, the only claim made on the page is that it was stolen code.

    I’m all for actually owning what you buy and being able to integrate it with your other stuff however you please, but distributing someone else’s work is a valid claim for infringement. And as with any other cloud-based stuff, don’t expect it to work forever. Support and push for local device access without the need for cloud services.






  • Eco Tank is a good choice if you print with regularity or need a photo printer, but not if you print maybe once or twice a year. It’s still an inkjet, and the head will still clog if sat unused for a couple months, requiring a lengthy head cleaning cycle and possible replacement of the maintenance box. If you almost never print, but need your printer to just work without fuss that one random day you need to print, it’s gotta be a laser printer.