• 0 Posts
  • 84 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
cake
Cake day: June 14th, 2023

help-circle


  • So if I understand this right you will need to change the network on the port attached to the synology in your UniFi configuration or set the vlan tag in the synology OS, I would do the former. It sounds like you just added a second network/vlan to the existing interface which means you actually created a trunk and are getting the old network untagged and the new network with vlan tags which the synology is dropping. Synology OS also doesn’t really support trunked ports through the UI (even though it does support a port that only uses a vlan tag) so it’s much easier to just leave them untagged.




  • Well 5ghz requires more power, has less range, and needs its own antenna so for microcontrollers this makes it pretty pointless for devices that need range and low bandwidth for sending sensor updates, especially those that are battery powered. 5ghz can also have its own issues in cities if you have a lot of use of the DFS bands as well as being worse at traversing reinforced concrete.

    Also, a 2.4ghz radio can also sometimes support other things like zigbee, BT, and BLE which can be used for other functions.

    For what it’s worth, I have probably 50 WiFi devices and the majority of them are 2.4ghz sensors or switches and other low bandwidth tasks and I don’t have any issues, even when living in an apartment complex. If you are having issues you might need different hardware or more access points or something.

    Anyway, all that to say that 2.4ghz definitely still has a lot of utility today.


  • So I stared at this for a while, particularly the pattern of the seam, I have a few questions. What type of infill are you using? how many outer wall loops? How much infill overlap (or whatever it is called)?

    Also what happens if you rotate the part on the bed 90 degrees so the seam is on a different axis? Or maybe 45 degrees? This will make sure it’s not some sort of mechanical issue in one direct that shows up in this specific situation.

    I know that all seems random but those are what I would check hah.


  • I think what that person is saying is that in your example the left part would probably be more durable because it is flexible and that the part on the right is less durable but more rigid, basically saying your result is expected and makes sense if you are wanting durability over rigidity.

    I think that the part that is unclear is that OP is using durability, rigidity, and strength as they are defined by material science not in common English and they way they differ in definition makes that comment make sense. I’m not a material scientist though so I could be wrong.

    I hope that is correct and makes sense hah!


  • Make sure your filament roller doesn’t have too much resistance as well. Since TPU stretches linearly way more than any other filament if it does have a lot of resistance then the extruder won’t be able to pull more filament until it overcomes that resistance and the stretch and it ends up physically thinning out the filament. Just a thought, hope it helps!






  • Yep definitely agree with all of this here, my friends and I have been saying the same things about Prusa too, they need to innovate or drop their prices in 2024.

    I am also a big oss supporter but the user experience of the Bambu ecosystem is really great, lately it has basically become the same argument as iPhone vs Android.

    To sum it up, I usually tell people that while both work, if your interest in the hobby is in the things that come off the printer then get a Bambu, if your interest is in tinkering and optimizing the printer then get a Prusa or something.

    I have a mk3s that is modded and an X1C and I always reach for the X1 because prints basically always work in any material without changing settings beyond infill/strength etc, I don’t even calibrate anything on it anymore, their auto calibrate function is extremely good and I have used it with PLA,PETG,ASA,ABS, PA/Nylon, PC, PLA/PETG/PA-CF, PLA+wood, and even TPU. The Prusa does well but it is definitely more finicky but I’m definitely a core-xy convert now so my next printer will be a core-xy because the accuracy is so much better for tall and square objects especially.




  • Yeah I’m curious too, I have an X1 and it has been extremely reliable and the wear parts are pretty reasonable I thought.

    You can also use whatever slicer you want, you just have to use Bambu/Orca slicer if you want to use the AMS or print from your computer which seems reasonable, it integrates with lots of other brands including octoprint. Both are very good and I actually use orca slicer with my other printers now because the UI is so much better.

    ETA: their hotend design is actually pretty great imo, and other brands are starting to release versions for it, e3d just released a HF hotend the other day.


  • So I am definitely not an electrician by any means but I noticed on their site the ZEN05 says “Do not install the device in a place with direct sun exposure, high temperature, or humidity.” which seems pretty silly to me for something that two lines above says it is outdoor rated hah. I bet that is why they said not to use it though, heat+melting ice will generate humidity or something. I wouldn’t be placing the device next to the heating pad if it was me anyway so I would think it would work, your logic seems sound to me, I probably wouldn’t even have asked zooz now that I think about it.

    That said, I’m going to need to hear more about these heating mats, I have some sidewalks that I don’t enjoy shoveling hah.

    ETA: forgot to include, I use the GE version of that ZEN05 outside (since 2019) plugged into a GFCI outlet and it works fine, it definitely has very direct sun and gets all weather too.